# Help cooking duck breast?



## jerseyjay14 (Feb 14, 2012)

I have made dozens of attempts at cooking duck breast.... with horrific results.  I've read through the techiniques from the CIA's professional chef, watched countless videos, and searched several web recipies.  yet cant seem to get it right.

looking for a medium rare duck breast with that crispy skin.

popular opinion is to put a cold, scored, seasoned duck breast skin side down in a dry pan over medium-low heat.  after 3-5 minutes, it should render and crisp up, flip, 30 seconds, then in a 200 degree oven skin side down for 4=6 minutes.

simple enough right?  

i get perfectly medium rare duck with rubber skin every time.  not sure what im doing wrong.

ive tried to be more patient.  with my stove on a tad below medium heat, i left the breast untouched skins side down for close to 15 minutes.  plenty of fat poured out, browned a bit, but still rubber.

next attempt, same thing, only this time i used a grill press to weigh the breast down.  same result.  perfect meat, horrible rubbery skin.

im using an eletric stove.  ive tried both stainless steel and a non stick pan.  neither made a difference.  i tried breasts off a whole duck i butchered and also tried the prepackaged duck breasts.  no luck either way.

What am i doing wrong?  can someone give me an extremely detailed step by step process?  i watch some of these videos, and try and follow but just doesnt seem to work

How to Cook the perfect Duck breast - YouTube

Gordon Ramsay - How To Cook Duck - YouTube

How To Pan Roast Duck Breast - YouTube

duck is my favorite... i order it out all the time.  ive mastered the sauces i love to have with it, and the side dishes.  but without that crispy skin, and the fat rendered, its just not the same.


----------



## Andy M. (Feb 14, 2012)

When I cook duck breasts, I score the flesh in a half inch cross-hatch pattern.  I cut all the way through the skin and fat down to the flesh.

I cook the duck over a moderate heat until fat rendering has slowed or stopped and the skin is a rich golden brown.  This takes closer to 15 minutes than 3-5 minutes.  I pour off the fat as it renders.

Then pan and all it goes into a preheated 400º F oven for 5-7 minutes.  I let it rest for five minutes before eating.  Times will vary based on breast size.


----------



## Greg Who Cooks (Feb 15, 2012)

I have just one idea: your duck should be at room temperature before cooking, not refrigerator cold. If that's not helpful then I have no idea.

I've only roasted ducks, whole or halved, or prepared them as pieces in coconut milk a la Thai style. I never did a pan seared duck.


----------



## FrankZ (Feb 15, 2012)

You have to get all the fat rendered from the skin.  Drain it as you go along in the pan as that helps keep the rendering going.  If all the fat doesn't render you will have squishy skin.

3-5 minutes likely won't render all the fat.


----------



## Bolas De Fraile (Feb 15, 2012)

AM,GG and FZ are correct.


----------



## HistoricFoodie (Feb 15, 2012)

I used to have the same problem. But that's because I believed all those instructions. Then I learned from a pro a totally different approach.

Score the skin in a diamond patter. Breasts should be as near room temperature as possible. Then, working over *low *heat, put the breasts in a pan, skin side down. As the fat renders, remove it. It takes a good half-hour, this way, for all the fat to render. But you get the crispiest skin you've ever had.

Finish cooking by flipping the breasts and popping the whole pan in the oven.

BTW, duck fat is bad for you. Best bet is to package it in a well insulated container and fedex it to me for proper disposal.


----------



## PrincessFiona60 (Feb 15, 2012)

HistoricFoodie said:


> I used to have the same problem. But that's because I believed all those instructions. Then I learned from a pro a totally different approach.
> 
> Score the skin in a diamond patter. Breasts should be as near room temperature as possible. Then, working over *low *heat, put the breasts in a pan, skin side down. As the fat renders, remove it. It takes a good half-hour, this way, for all the fat to render. But you get the crispiest skin you've ever had.
> 
> ...



I happen to know that I have the proper Biohazard receptacles, approved by OSHA and the FDA for disposal of duck fat.  Don't listen to H.Foodie, it needs to be shipped to me.


----------



## jerseyjay14 (Feb 15, 2012)

*Thanks everyone for all the responses, to be clear, he was my step by step process:*

- bring duck breast to room temprature(i also tired it cold in previous attempts)
- scored(tried straight lines and diamond pattern
- season both sides
- in try pan, on medium low heat("4" out of "9" on my electric stovetop)
- left it there 12-15 minutes.  )alot of fat came out, but not nearly enough, i assume it should be at least a panful.)
- flipped, jacked up heat, cooked non skin side
- popped in 200 degree oven for 5 minutes

this left me with a perfectly cooked duck with horribly rubbery skin.  but i will attempt again tonite.


----------



## jerseyjay14 (Feb 15, 2012)

HistoricFoodie said:


> Then, working over *low *heat, put the breasts in a pan, skin side down.



1) when you say low, how low?  for example on a scale of 1 to 9 on my stove, what would you suggest.  normally id just kind of wing it, but ive had trouble, so im asking 
2) what kind of pan would you reccomend?  stainless?  nonstick?

3) would you suggest using a grill press on top to keep pressure, or no?


> As the fat renders, remove it. It takes a good half-hour, this way, for all the fat to render. But you get the crispiest skin you've ever had.



how much fat should be in the pan when i pour off the fat?  should the duck be in a mostly empty pan at all times?  



> BTW, duck fat is bad for you. Best bet is to package it in a well insulated container and fedex it to me for proper disposal.



nice try... and if duck fat is bad for you, i dont want to be good


----------



## FrankZ (Feb 15, 2012)

200F will not crisp the skin, especially not for 5 minutes.  That will be a nice tropical spot for them after the fridge, but that is about it.  You need high heat to finish.

It is easier to use a wicked sharp knife and have the breasts cold, just out of the fridge when you do your scoring.  You will notice the difference from when you start and when you are done as the breasts warm up.


----------



## Andy M. (Feb 15, 2012)

FrankZ said:


> 200F will not crisp the skin, especially not for 5 minutes.  That will be a nice tropical spot for them after the fridge, but that is about it.  You need high heat to finish.
> 
> It is easier to use a wicked sharp knife and have the breasts cold, just out of the fridge when you do your scoring.  You will notice the difference from when you start and when you are done as the breasts warm up.



I noticed one of the videos showed the oven's being set to 200º but that was centigrade, not F.


----------



## FrankZ (Feb 15, 2012)

Oh 200C would be a lot close.. though it might not be quite enough at 392F

I would think 425-450F would be the ticket.


----------



## jerseyjay14 (Feb 15, 2012)

FrankZ said:


> 200F will not crisp the skin, especially not for 5 minutes.  That will be a nice tropical spot for them after the fridge, but that is about it.  You need high heat to finish.



i didnt think finishing in the oven at 200 degrees is to get them crispy...i though that was just to raise the internal temperature?  my assumption was the pan rendering and searing should have the skin crispy before the oven?  maybe this is my issue????


> It is easier to use a wicked sharp knife and have the breasts cold, just out of the fridge when you do your scoring.  You will notice the difference from when you start and when you are done as the breasts warm up.


i am using a freshly sharpened 10" henckles twin cermax.  i think im butchering them well.... diamond pattern, score goes all the way through the fat - but not into the flesh.  i will upload photos from tonites attempt


----------



## jerseyjay14 (Feb 15, 2012)

FrankZ said:


> Oh 200C would be a lot close.. though it might not be quite enough at 392F
> 
> I would think 425-450F would be the ticket.



thanks, i will try 425


----------



## HistoricFoodie (Feb 15, 2012)

1. I can't answer that, JJ. I don't use electric, and have no feel for it. With my gas stove I just eyeball it, and adjust based on what the breasts are doing. The fat should be slowly melting out of them.

2. I never use non-stick, won't even have one in the house. Either stainless, carbon steel, or cast iron works. Since rediscovering carbon steel a couple of years ago, it's become my go-to skillet material.

3. No need for a grill press. You are melting the fat, no squeezing it out.

How much fat? Very little. You are rendering the fat, not frying the breasts. Plus, the longer it stays in the pan, the more likely it will burn---rendering it useless for other purposes.

_200F will not crisp the skin,....._

+1 to what Frank says, on all points.


----------



## Andy M. (Feb 15, 2012)

Any pan will do the trick.  The pan surface material doesn't really make a difference in a situation like this.  I use SS for a duck breast.  CI, Teflon or CS would also do the job.  Use what you have.

My gas stove temp knob ranges from 0-10.  I use a setting of about 6.  You may use a lower setting.  The key is that fat is rendering and the skin is browning slowly.


----------



## Greg Who Cooks (Feb 15, 2012)

I agree with the others: hotter oven. And I think maybe more time than 5 minutes. Get your oven hotter and run the experiment, possibly sacrificing a duck breast just to get the process right. Just leave it in and check the skin crispness from time to time, note how many minutes it took to get crisp, and then see if the breast meat is okay or overcooked. You could do this some time when you have something else planned for dinner so that you're not committed to eat your experiment in case it turns out wrong.


----------



## FrankZ (Feb 15, 2012)

Unless you turn it into a hockey puck I am not sure you can go wrong with duck breast.


----------



## jerseyjay14 (Feb 15, 2012)

HistoricFoodie said:


> 1. I can't answer that, JJ. I don't use electric, and have no feel for it. With my gas stove I just eyeball it, and adjust based on what the breasts are doing. The fat should be slowly melting out of them.



thanks.... anyone else maybe shed some light on this particular aspect?


> 2. I never use non-stick, won't even have one in the house. Either stainless, carbon steel, or cast iron works. Since rediscovering carbon steel a couple of years ago, it's become my go-to skillet material.



again, thanks... now would you put the duck in a hot pan, or put the duck in and then bring the heat up?  ive read recipies using both methods


> How much fat? Very little. You are rendering the fat, not frying the breasts. Plus, the longer it stays in the pan, the more likely it will burn---rendering it useless for other purposes.



so as soon as there is a bit of a puddle, pour it out?  also, when doing this, i assume its important to make sure the breast doesnt move while draining fat?


----------



## jerseyjay14 (Feb 15, 2012)

Gourmet Greg said:


> I agree with the others: hotter oven. And I think maybe more time than 5 minutes. Get your oven hotter and run the experiment, possibly sacrificing a duck breast just to get the process right. Just leave it in and check the skin crispness from time to time, note how many minutes it took to get crisp, and then see if the breast meat is okay or overcooked. You could do this some time when you have something else planned for dinner so that you're not committed to eat your experiment in case it turns out wrong.



i certainly am fine sacraficing a breast or three in the name of perfecting the method.  

in the oven, skins side up or down?


----------



## jerseyjay14 (Feb 15, 2012)

FrankZ said:


> Unless you turn it into a hockey puck I am not sure you can go wrong with duck breast.


yea.... thats why its frustrating... seems i just cant get crispy skin.... even when the surface is super seared and browned, i just cant shed the fat underneath and its super rubbery

hopefully the tips here workout


----------



## Greg Who Cooks (Feb 15, 2012)

I would put the skin side up when in the oven. I would use a small rack in the pan to keep the breasts out of their juices.

And to remove the fat from the pan, just tip it to allow it to go to one edge, then use a spoon to remove it. Just get most of it, no need to get it all. Repeat as necessary. There is no need to remove the breasts from the pan while doing this. (In fact don't.) Just tip the pan and spoon out the excess fat. The fat that remains will help conduct heat from the pan to the skin and promote additional browning and de-fatting.


----------



## Claire (Feb 15, 2012)

Oh, dearie me.  Never have a problem with skin not crispy enough.  That said, probably because I don't mind the meat on the rare side.  I score it and put it on a very, very hot skillet.  A few times back, someone asked me why I said I don't "do" duck in the winter.  This smokes like crazy and I do not have an exhaust fan.  But I sear it skin-down.


----------



## FrankZ (Feb 15, 2012)

You might try this:

While it is in the low pan rendering, flip it over, poke the skin to help release more fat then flip it back.  

When I roast a duck in the oven I go 300F for about 3.5-4 hours, flipping every hour and I poke the diamonds when I flip.  Then crank to 450 for 5-10 minutes to finish the crisping.


----------



## Greg Who Cooks (Feb 15, 2012)

Now that you mention that Frank, when I roast duck I liberally stab it with a fork all over the skin, to help release the fats. In the OP's case perhaps he could fork stab it first and then cut the diamonds.


----------



## Andy M. (Feb 15, 2012)

When the duck is in the pan skin side down, just pour the fat off from time to time.  It doesn't matter how often you do it or when.  Keep a bowl by the stove and hold the breast with a tongs and pour the fat into the bowl.  Return the duck and the pan to the stove.  It's OK if the duck moves in the pan.

When you are done rendering the fat in the pan the skin will be super crisp if you did it right (as I described).  Then you flip the breast over so it's skin side up and pop it into the oven.  The skin will be crisp going in and since it's skin side up, it shouldn't change.


----------



## Greg Who Cooks (Feb 15, 2012)

Andy M. said:


> When the duck is in the pan skin side down, just pour the fat off from time to time.  It doesn't matter how often you do it or when.  Keep a bowl by the stove and hold the breast with a tongs and pour the fat into the bowl.  Return the duck and the pan to the stove.  It's OK if the duck moves in the pan.



That's better than my suggestion.


----------



## Andy M. (Feb 15, 2012)

Gourmet Greg said:


> That's better than my suggestion.





thanks


----------

