# Matelote----Sort Of



## HistoricFoodie (Feb 17, 2012)

Matelote is a French fisherman’s stew. Because it originated in an in-land part of France, it is usually made with fresh water fish. Eel is the traditional choice, but, in his Paris journal, Thomas Jefferson says that “catfish, pike, or other fish” can be used. Jefferson really liked catfish, and I have no doubt that was his choice when making this at Monticello.

There’s no reason not to use salt water fish, if preferred. I’m making this tonight with mahi-mahi, for instance, because there was a good price on it at the market. 
MATELOTE
(French Fish Stew)
2-3 strips thick-sliced bacon, cut in lardoons  
1 cup sliced onion
2 garlic cloves, minced                        
2 cups pinot noir, burgundy, or any red wine
2 cups fish stock                                 
¼ tbls minced parsley
1 bay leaf                                            
½ tsp thyme
¼ tsp black pepper                              
¼ tsp allspice
Pinch salt                                             
4 tbls butter, divided
1 lb beech mushrooms                         
1 lb pearl onions, prepped                   
2 lbs firm fleshed fish                         
Salt & pepper to taste
Croutons (optional) for garnish

Cut fish into slabs.

Fry the bacon in a large saucepan until just browned. Remove from pan and reserve. Add the onion and garlic to the pan and sauté until tender. Add the wine, stock, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, pepper, allspice and a pinch of salt. Bring to boil, reduce heat, and simmer 45 minutes. Liquid will be reduced by about half. 

While soup is simmering, melt 2 tbls butter in a skillet. Sauté the mushrooms until all liquid evaporates and mushrooms brown up. Remove to a bowl and reserve. Melt remaining butter in same skillet and sauté the pearl onions until patchy brown. Transfer to same bowl as mushrooms. Deglaze skillet with more wine, and add to the simmering stock.

15 minutes before serving, bring soup back to boil. Add the fish and cook, 8-10 minutes until just done. Remove fish to a serving bowl and keep warm. 
Add the onions and mushrooms into the broth and boil hard about 5 minutes to reduce further and concentrate flavors. Adjust seasonings. Return lardoons to broth and pour over the fish.

Option: Garnish each serving with croutons made by cutting bread into small triangles and frying in garlic butter until browned on both sides.

Notes:
1. Broth and onion/mushroom mixture can be prepared up to a day ahead and kept in the fridge. Take out an hour before final prep, so they come to room temperature. 
2. I use beech mushrooms because I like their flavor. Obviously, any mushrooms can sub. But they should be cut into bite-sized pieces.
3. The bacon amount is a guess. I use slab bacon, and cut off the amount I think I’ll need.


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## Zhizara (Feb 17, 2012)

This looks to be really good.  I printed out a copy.

I do have a couple of questions.  I buy catfish nuggets which are pretty reasonably priced here, but wouldn't have fish stock on hand.  What else can I use?  I often use chicken broth in other dishes.  Do you think that might work here?


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## HistoricFoodie (Feb 17, 2012)

It would create a slightly different flavor profile, Zhizara. But there's no reason not to use it. The end result is going to taste very winey, no matter what other liquid you use.

I've seen Matelote recipes that use white wine instead of red. That might be a better approach with chicken stock. 

Alternatively, can you buy clam juice down there? I often make a fast fish-stock by cutting clam juice half & half with water. You can also use shrimp shells and/or crab shells to make a stock. 

BTW, those catfish nuggets are a perfect choice for a Matelote.


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## Margi Cintrano (Feb 17, 2012)

*@ Historic Foodie: Wonderful Historic Recipe*

Bom Día and Hello From Porto, 
@ Historic Foodie, 

Thanx for posting such a wonderful fish soup. You know I am always looking for fish / shellfish soup recipes ... I posted a Portuguese Chowder that we had for lunch when we arrived in Porto, Portugal today. Also delicious. 

Have nice wkend.
Margi.


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## Margi Cintrano (Feb 17, 2012)

*Matelot in English : a sailor´s traditional thick soup*

@ Historic Foodie,

The French translation is Matelot in English. Sounds fun ... It was made with Carp ... 

Margi.


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## Steve Kroll (Feb 17, 2012)

This sounds very good; I'll have to try it.

Regarding a substitute for fish stock, I agree clam juice would work well. This time of year, I often see smelt in the seafood section. It's cheap and I've used it to make stock.

You also make a good point about shrimp and crab shells. Whenever we have something calling for shrimp, I usually just toss the shells into a ziplock and put them in the freezer. Then when I have time, I put them in a pan along with a bay leaf or two, cover with water, and simmer for about 45 minutes. This stock freezes well.


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## HistoricFoodie (Feb 17, 2012)

I do the same thing with shrimp shells, Steve. Although when I use them for stock there's rarely enough left over to freeze. 

I also use them in my squash hills, as a source of nutrients.


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## Zhizara (Feb 17, 2012)

Actually, I was going to leave out the wine.  Except for a little sherry in certain dishes, I don't like my wine cooked.  To me it just ruins a dish.  Two cups???  I'd rather drink it myself.

I usually buy cleaned frozen tail-on shrimp.  I'll start saving the tails, but it will be awhile  before I have enough to make stock.  

I'll start by just cutting the tails off with that little bit of meat inside, instead of pulling them off to keep the bit of meat intact.

I thought about the clam juice too.  I use it in oyster stew, since I can't get extra oyster liquor.  Plus some of those canned baby clams at the last minute or two.  It's got a lot of clam juice in it as well.


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## HistoricFoodie (Feb 17, 2012)

If you leave out the wine it will be a totally different dish, being as Matelote is difined that way.

Not that the result would be bad, by any means. Just call it something else. 

And it makes the use of chicken stock even more feasible. I believe, going that way, that I'd add a little milk or cream, towards the end, just for some richness.

I would not use any commercial chicken stock for this dish. You're really concentrating it, and the salt content in all of them, IMO, is much too high for such treatment.


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## Zhizara (Feb 17, 2012)

HistoricFoodie said:


> If you leave out the wine it will be a totally different dish, being as Matelote is difined that way.
> 
> Not that the result would be bad, by any means. Just call it something else.
> 
> ...



I never use canned chicken stock.  I always buy 10# chicken legs which I separate and freeze.  It's just so easy to boil some up and I can season it the way I like.  Unless I'm going to make soup right away, I don't salt my stock/broth.

I wish more manufacturers would remove the salt from their seasonings.  Sometimes I want a bolder flavor, but can't add more without adding extra salt.


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## HistoricFoodie (Feb 17, 2012)

Bold flavors? Isn't that what the McIlhenny family is for?


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## Zhizara (Feb 17, 2012)

Huh?  Who?


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## HistoricFoodie (Feb 17, 2012)

Originators of Tabasco sauce. Out on Avery Island.


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## Zhizara (Feb 17, 2012)

Thanks.


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## Bolas De Fraile (Feb 18, 2012)

My wife family are fishermen in the Med. The stews all nationalities of fishermen make in the med use the fish that is damaged or does not sell.Restaurant caught on to the idear and tourism took the various med fish stews around the world.The famous Marseille Bouillabaisse: The Complete Guide
This fish Croatian Dreams :: scorfano fish picture by Hvar2010 - Photobucket is the key, The Scorpion in English , Rascasse in French, Scorfano in Italian.
In California its called Red Rock Cod.Scorfano costs about $25 a pound in Europe I would be interested to know what it costs in America.


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## Margi Cintrano (Feb 18, 2012)

*Scorpion Fish - Iberian Peninsula*

Scorpion fish, a bright coral red stunning colored " cactus - dinosaur " looking fish, with armor, a rock fish, which is delectable is only 5.90 Euros a kilo ... Inside all of that armor protecting it, is the most splendid delicate white flesh ... A stunning sea specimen.

It is in season here now ... 

*** called Cabracho in Spanish. 

Margaux. Cintrano.


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## Zhizara (Feb 18, 2012)

That's amazingly cheap, Margi, considering that the spines are poisonous.  I wouldn't want to have to catch them myself.


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## Margi Cintrano (Feb 18, 2012)

*I Trust My Fish Monger*

Yes, you are correct. True fact about this breed of fish ...

However, I trust my Fish Monger, Miguel. Knowledgeable and has been in the fish business for over 30 years. Very important.  

He cleans and prepares all my fish; I just tell him, how I wish to prepare and the menu ... 

There is a wonderful southern Iberian fish called: Donkey Fish in English or Rubber Lip Grunt, and it has a poisonous intestine which must be removed 1st ... Then I dredge in chick pea flour and lightly sauté --- it is absolutely divine ... Miguel is very transparent and explains all to his long term clientel. 

Ever have Rubber Lip Grunt ?
It is wonderful, delectable white fish too. 

I am not a professional chef and thus, never cut my own fish or meats. 

I have the professionals do it and I just tell them or show them the recipe of what I am cooking in Spanish ...  

Best regards. Have nice wkend.
M.C.


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## Margi Cintrano (Feb 18, 2012)

*@ Bolas:  Scorpion in Madrid is Euros 5.90 Kilo !*

I am planning to buy some on Monday as we are in Porto, Portugal at moment. 

Fabulous white delectable fish --- however, I have my Fish Monger prepare the fillets for me ... 

Not quite 6 euros a kilo and in season now ---

Muchas Gracías for the post and photos.

Margi. Have nice wkend.


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## Bolas De Fraile (Feb 18, 2012)

Margi Cintrano said:


> Scorpion fish, a bright coral red stunning colored " cactus - dinosaur " looking fish, with armor, a rock fish, which is delectable is only 5.90 Euros a kilo ... Inside all of that armor protecting it, is the most splendid delicate white flesh ... A stunning sea specimen.
> 
> It is in season here now ...
> 
> ...


Hello Margi are you sure it is not this fish it looks like the Scorfano but cost a lot less Marine Wildlife - Aspitrigla cuculus
This pic is of a Chapon Scorfano on sale at 34.8 euro per kg in Provence Rascasse - known as Chapon when large | Flickr - Photo Sharing!


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## HistoricFoodie (Feb 18, 2012)

Yer killin' me, here, Margi. 

I had originally planned on grouper for the matalote. But it's 17 bucks a pound. Grouper, you know. Not something exotic. Even the mahi mahi, which was on special, cost me $8. But, again, that's per pound, not kilo.


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## Margi Cintrano (Feb 18, 2012)

*Iberian Peninsula: Purchase via Kilo*

Historic Foodie,

Considering, fresh fish is a hell of a lot cheaper than beef or lamb or game ( feathered varieties and hoof varieties ) here. 

Scorpio is on sale at 5.90 a kilo ... the regular price for Norwegian salmon is between 8.95 and 9.95 a kilo standard ... Calamar ( squid ) is about 5 Euros a kilo and sometimes less when in season. 



Filet of sole on the other hand is on pricey side, as it is caught off southern Ireland, 14 Euros a kilo.

$ 1.33 USD = 1 Euro ( I check monthly, so last time I checked )

Sea Bream called Besugo is expensive due to small catch, about 22 Euros a kilo. Fresh Cod fish is 8 Euros a kilo. Mussels are real cheap in season, they go for 3 Euros a kilo ... Clams 8 to 10 Euros a kilo ... Fresh Sardines are cheap too, 3 to 4 Euros a kilo ... 

Grouper or Ma hi Ma hi are both lovely for your soup as it is firm and white ... Grouper runs about 8 to 10 Euros a kilo depending on season.

We do not have Mahi Mahi here ... however, we have Hake which is similar ... 

Margi.


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## Margi Cintrano (Feb 18, 2012)

*@ Bolas: Scorpion Fish: Cabracho*

The photo is exactly the same as ur fotos  --- 
It is in season in Iberian Peninsula at 5.95 Kilo. They call it Cabracho or Scorpion fish in English.

The reason is simple: in southern France it is a delicacy and for Spaniards, it is not ... so in order to sell it, they bring down price. 

The other reason is a well known Iberian specialty is: Terrine of Cabracho ... they use it to make terrines and patés. However, I like the white delicate type of flesh it has ...

Thanks for photos.
M.C.


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## Margi Cintrano (Feb 18, 2012)

*@ Bolas: the photo 34.80 a kilo is correct fish*

@ Bolas,

The correct photo is the one with the big price tag of 34.80 per kilo, not the one with the large lip ...

Thanks for photos,
Appreciate the time you take out.
Margi.


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