the knife according to the link is stainless steel. stainless is softer than the hard Japanese style knives.
your 1k/6k is probably much to fine for stainless. very hard steels will take the fine edge of a 6k stone - but not stainless. you may be just polishing the edge; to restore and edge it is necessary to physically remove metal 'to an angle'
fwiw, I have stainless Wuesthof; I use 400/600 grit to get the proper flat, and finish the chef knives to 800, but the slicers to a steeper angle and finish with 1000.
(grits per Edge-Pro)
as for getting/keeping/maintaining an angle, after many years free-handing, I got an Edge-Pro. it is seriously phenomenal at angles; the 'improvement' in sharpness was very noticeable.
sharpening is not rocket science - but it sure helps to do a bit of studying to know what you are trying to accomplish and how to know if you're getting there.
also to note, the "grit" ratings on natural stones vs synthetic stones / cheap / expensive / etc does not match up. it would be good to find someone who know where on the "scale of reality" that stone sites.
I suggest you look up the on-line 'manual' by Chad Ward - it is an excellent read and explains the types of edges / geometries. also tips on sharpening - such as striping the knife edge with a marker - get a magnifying glass - as you work on the stones the marker is removed and you can see much more precisely what you are doing.
your 1k/6k is probably much to fine for stainless. very hard steels will take the fine edge of a 6k stone - but not stainless. you may be just polishing the edge; to restore and edge it is necessary to physically remove metal 'to an angle'
fwiw, I have stainless Wuesthof; I use 400/600 grit to get the proper flat, and finish the chef knives to 800, but the slicers to a steeper angle and finish with 1000.
(grits per Edge-Pro)
as for getting/keeping/maintaining an angle, after many years free-handing, I got an Edge-Pro. it is seriously phenomenal at angles; the 'improvement' in sharpness was very noticeable.
sharpening is not rocket science - but it sure helps to do a bit of studying to know what you are trying to accomplish and how to know if you're getting there.
also to note, the "grit" ratings on natural stones vs synthetic stones / cheap / expensive / etc does not match up. it would be good to find someone who know where on the "scale of reality" that stone sites.
I suggest you look up the on-line 'manual' by Chad Ward - it is an excellent read and explains the types of edges / geometries. also tips on sharpening - such as striping the knife edge with a marker - get a magnifying glass - as you work on the stones the marker is removed and you can see much more precisely what you are doing.