Demi-glace with or without Espagnole?

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BAPyessir6

Senior Cook
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May 15, 2020
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145
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Prior Lake
I have made Demi-Glace once using what I assumed to be the "traditional" method of half Espagnole and half veal/beef stock, but I have seen many recipes online that claim to be Demi-Glace that only call for a roasted veal stock reduction, even touted by chefs like Wolfgang Puck and the like. I prefer to try to keep (at least the first few tumes making something new) a recipe as classic and traditional as possible. Is one sauce superior to the other, or more traditional? If one is traditional (I'm assuming the Espagnole/veal stock is the traditional one here) why do you think the other is so commonly referred to as demi glace as well? Is it because it's a shortcut? Is it a variation?
 
The following is a direct quote from a youtube I watch, who at the moment is taking us (me) thru all the sauces.

Speaking of brown sauces, it's worth noting that the classification of French sauces has evolved over time, and the classic list of mother sauces is no longer the standard in the professional culinary world. For reference, here’s what the contemporary French sauce classification looks like today:​

  • Brown sauces​

  • White sauces​

  • Emulsified sauces (cold and warm)​

  • Sweet sauces​

So, brown sauces are now a distinct category, and demi-glace or jus serves as the foundational base for many contemporary brown sauces.​

exploring the demi-glace

He has quite a few video's and I find he is very understandable and makes things sound possible for the home cook! LOL
 
A real quick glance ... I think it is just describing the various names of different sauces. It is not telling you the differences.
 
Don't let it get too complicated. Even though there are changes in the list of "Mother Sauces" - which is the 'original' list of sauces that all others are derived from - as they teach in Cordin Bleu -

Try going back to those original 5 - learn them and then expand. I think you will be less overwhelmed.
Well, hopefully - I still am a little bit because I can't sit and learn one at a time - I just take whatever sauce seems appropriate - at least to me - and go with that one. Right or wrong! Do what pleases you.
 
All of the brown sauces have their roots in basic brown stock. Although veal stock can be either white or brown, 'brown stock' typically refers to a mixture of beef and veal. True veal stock is much more difficult to make or obtain in the US, because we don't eat as much veal as they do in Europe, making it harder to find bones and much more expensive. Wolfgang Puck's ego aside, the traditional base is brown stock, not veal stock, which would have much more subtle uses than burying under other strong meat flavors.

When I make a pot of stock, I divide it into 2 batches.

First batch, I slowly reduce until most of the water has evaporated, and I have a thick glaze that coats the back of a spoon. When I chill this, it's a firm jelly. This is called viande de glace, or meat glaze. Freeze it by the tablespoon. I use it 2 ways. Add a tablespoon to a reduction sauce to greatly enhance both the flavor and the texture of the sauce. When I need beef stock, I just reconstitute a tablespoon into a half cup or cup of water, depending on the desired strength.

Second batch, I enrich further with more meat, onions, tomato paste, and thicken slightly with flour. I freeze this in 1/4 cup or 1/2 cup containers. This is Sauce Espagnole, and is the basis for several of the classic French sauces. When I need demi-glace, I reconstitute some of the glace and add it to some of the espagnole.

This way, I only have to store 2 sauces (glace & espagnole), but I have a world of sauces at my disposal.
 
All of the brown sauces have their roots in basic brown stock. Although veal stock can be either white or brown, 'brown stock' typically refers to a mixture of beef and veal. True veal stock is much more difficult to make or obtain in the US, because we don't eat as much veal as they do in Europe, making it harder to find bones and much more expensive. Wolfgang Puck's ego aside, the traditional base is brown stock, not veal stock, which would have much more subtle uses than burying under other strong meat flavors.

When I make a pot of stock, I divide it into 2 batches.

First batch, I slowly reduce until most of the water has evaporated, and I have a thick glaze that coats the back of a spoon. When I chill this, it's a firm jelly. This is called viande de glace, or meat glaze. Freeze it by the tablespoon. I use it 2 ways. Add a tablespoon to a reduction sauce to greatly enhance both the flavor and the texture of the sauce. When I need beef stock, I just reconstitute a tablespoon into a half cup or cup of water, depending on the desired strength.

Second batch, I enrich further with more meat, onions, tomato paste, and thicken slightly with flour. I freeze this in 1/4 cup or 1/2 cup containers. This is Sauce Espagnole, and is the basis for several of the classic French sauces. When I need demi-glace, I reconstitute some of the glace and add it to some of the espagnole.

This way, I only have to store 2 sauces (glace & espagnole), but I have a world of sauces at my disposal.
Does Sauce Espagnole need to always be made with a brown roux? I usually make my brown roux with flour/oil in the oven over 2 to 3 hours until it's a nice deep brown. That's a very smart way to do it, that way you have 2 sauces instead of one! Brilliant!

I recently made some super concentrated pork stock out of about 8 pounds of pork chop bones. Dehydrated it until almost dry (though the pork fat didny't really dry) and now I have the richest stock ever in my freezer in 1/8 oz cubes. Can't wait to use it in things like soups, sauces, and bao to add flavor.
 
Don't let it get too complicated. Even though there are changes in the list of "Mother Sauces" - which is the 'original' list of sauces that all others are derived from - as they teach in Cordin Bleu -

Try going back to those original 5 - learn them and then expand. I think you will be less overwhelmed.
Well, hopefully - I still am a little bit because I can't sit and learn one at a time - I just take whatever sauce seems appropriate - at least to me - and go with that one. Right or wrong! Do what pleases you.
I have made the mother sauces many times over, and it wasn't that my reply meant I felt overwhelmed. I actually felt excited! I've loved cooking since I was at least 10 (my mom tells me I used to watch chef Tell at 5 with my face pressed against the TV.) 😂. Cooking is so much fun! Time to branch out and make more sauces!
 

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