Do Steels Wear Out?

[WhateverYouWant]

I have quite few Zwilling J.A. Henckels Four Star knives... these are the original 20° edge 4 stars from 25-30 years ago. I also have the original ribbed steel, bought at the same time.

Do these steels wear out?

I ask as it seems I can't really keep an edge on these anymore. I have an Apex whetstone system I use to sharpen the knifes and it works well to get them really sharp, they just don't seem to stay that way long even with regular use of the steel.

 

[Andy M.]

The job of the steel is to align the edge of a knife. That can be done if the steel is ribbed or smooth. If the ribs are completely worn off (not likely) the alignment may take longer but should still work.

 

[WhateverYouWant]

Well I'll be damned... I have been doing this wrong for decades!!!

After a morning's research, I finally stumbled across a Bob Kramer video on using a steel. While everything I have seen/heard up until now was "a light pressure against the steel". No one has ever been specific about this.

About 2/3 way through the video, Bob uses a scale to demonstrate the amount of pressure to be used... about four to six pounds!!!!! That is probably tens times what I had assumed is "a light pressure against the steel"!

A quick trip to the kitchen island, and after 6 strokes, it goes through a grocery store receipt like water.

Looks like I finally don't have to choose between sharpening my knives every few weeks or working with a not too sharp knife. Thanks Bob! (c;

 

[medtran49]

We've replaced our steel once, probably around the same age as OP's is, as it wasn't doing much when it was used.

 

[taxlady]

Thanks for the link to the video SP.

A chef taught me a different way to hold the knife when honing. Instead of leading with the cutting edge, turn the knife around and pull the blade away from you, with the cutting edge at the trailing side. It's less scary for many people. I seldom remember to do it that way.

 

[pepperhead212]

taxlady The way you describe is the way I've always honed the knives. Works fine; don't know where I learned it.

I have a 10" four star Henckels chefs knife, which I bought in '79, and it still holds a great edge - better than most knives I've gotten since.
I also have a 10" Henckels honer I got probably in '84 (when I set up my present kitchen), and the ribs are still there, but they definitely have worn away some. It still works, but it probably takes a few more swipes.

Back in '95, when my Mom moved into her new place, I bought some knives and a honer for her kitchen (I couldn't take going over there and trying to prepare food with those knives from the 50s!). One was a Henckels 8" chefs knife, and the first time I used it got dull, and needed honing a couple of times. This didn't make sense, so I took it home, and did some comparison cuttings, using other knives, including the old one, and same thing! So I called the company (before the days that all you could get was a robot on a phone, or just the internet), and a lady explained to me that they may have changed the formula of the metal somewhat in recent years, but this shouldn't be happening. I just took if back for a refund, and never bought another Henckels knife. Hopefully, they've corrected this.

 

[Chief Longwind Of The North]

About 43 years ago, I purchased a set of 3 Chicago Cutlery knives, a slicer, a utility, and a paring knife, with an included matching steel. I still recall from the instruction manual that to hone the knies, push the knife edge along the steel away from you, using medium pressure, making sure to avoid slapping the blade against the steel. If this did no restore the edge, it said to reverse the blade so as to drag the cuuting edge on the steel. It was called reverse steeling.

Reverse steling. On a grooved steel can remove metal, and can fold the knife edge. Afteŕ reverse steeling, forward steeling is required to properly align the edge geometry.

My favorite lnife edge grind is convex, and requires a strop, or flexible clorh, or paper strip. I like the Ken Onion sharpening system. Though I don't own one, but it looks like a great sharpening system to me. It's a toy that would surely shorten the time it tskrs to sharpen my Chroma, my Chicago Cutlery, and a realy old, and beatiful high carbon butcher knife handed down from my Dad.

A steel, smmoth or with ridges will re-align a knife edge. The smooth shank of a screwdriver, or the heel of another knife works too, you are simply usibnga hard surface to remove the micro-fold from the knife edgel, and make the thinnest part of the knife edge face stright up & down. Think of how and what a knife does. Think of the edge shape that will provide the sharpest, most durable edge. The rest becomes elementary.

Seeeeeya; Chief Longwind of the North

 

[fmw]

The job of the steel is to align the edge of a knife. That can be done if the steel is ribbed or smooth. If the ribs are completely worn off (not likely) the alignment may take longer but should still work.

Correct. Steels don't sharpen blades. They straighten edges. To sharpen you need to grind off some steel. Don't get me wrong. Straight edges outperform deformed edges so steeling is a worthwhile activity. Don't apply pressure when using a steel. A light swipe on each side should get the job done.

 

[obillo]

I have quite few Zwilling J.A. Henckels Four Star knives... these are the original 20° edge 4 stars from 25-30 years ago. I also have the original ribbed steel, bought at the same time.

Do these steels wear out?

I ask as it seems I can't really keep an edge on these anymore. I have an Apex whetstone system I use to sharpen the knifes and it works well to get them really sharp, they just don't seem to stay that way long even with regular use of the steel.

I've been using the same 14"Zwilling steel for 4 year and it seems to be fine. I suggest you have ONE knife professionally sharpened; use it regularly and pay attention to edge retention. I can't think of any reason why the knives themselves should be at fault for losing edge quickly, so I think you have to consider that you may be doing something wrong. That is, in this situation, the knives are the constants and you are the variable. Please report. Also: some very effective steels are perfectly smooth, so I doubt that wear is the problem.

 

[taxlady]

I have been using the same steel for about 30 years. It still seems to work fine on my Henckels. I got the steel before I moved in with DH, who is the person who bought the Henckels.

 

[Roll_Bones]

I sharpen if needed about twice a year. I have a Chefs Choice electric sharpener. Then I use a steel each time I pull out a knife.
I noticed my steel was not doing a real good job the other day. So I will use the sharpener and put it away for next time. I will do all the knives while I have it out.

 

[obillo]

I don't think steels wear out, and I don't think it matters if they do. There, after all, steels that are perfectly smooth. My steel is a 14" Zwilling, and although I use it only as a home cook, it still seems to be doing its job after 40 years. I steel my knives 6 strokes a side, edge toward me. Then I reverse the process, 'stropping' maybe 4 strokes a side--edge still toward me, but stroking away from myself. It seems to make a difference. The power of suggestion is strong, but I think I can actually hear a slightly different 'hiss' when I slash newspaper to test the edge. Lately I have begun to strop on leather--not a stiff, short 'paddle' strop but on a slack, well-oiled belt I bought at a flea market. I oil it with neatsfoot oil and sometimes mink oil paste. I doubt that the kind of oil is important. Ordinary mineral oil ($6 a pint) is fine; baby oil is the same thing, with scent and higher cost added. Probably vaseline would do as well. Of course, for fanatics there are pleasingly extravagant alternatives: tsubaki oil, which the Japanese extract from camellia seeds and use on their hair ($4 an ounce), and the 'specially formulated' Blackcreek Knife and Blade oil, handsomely packaged and $6 an ounce.